THE TIMES OF INDIA

Bombay, Maharashtra, India

6 October 1902

(page 3)

THE HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION.

A correspondent writes from Geneva:—Dr. Jacot-Guillarmod [Jules Jacot Guillarmod], of Neuchatel, the well-known Swiss Alpine climber and a member of the international party who set out last March to climb some of the highest peaks in the Himalayas, writes home that he and his companions reached "Possible Saddle" (5,500 metres), their base, on June 29. It is from this camp that the party—which consists of three Englishmen, Messrs. Crowley, [Guy Knowles] and Eckenstein [Oscar Eckenstein] (the last of whom accompanied Sir William Conway in his expedition to the Himalayas) two Austrians, Drs. Wessely [Victor Wessely] and Pfannel [Heinrich Pfannl], and the Swiss doctor above mentioned—intend making an attempt to climb the Godwin Austen, 28,250ft., and a nameless mountain marked K 2, 28,265ft., in the survey map.

They are accompanied by a number of experienced Swiss and native guides and an army of coolies to transport the large amount of baggage and numerous scientific instruments. The expeditions—300 persons in all—has taken three months to reach the base on account of the many obstacles encountered in those unexplored regions. Often they are obliged to make long detours as the "moraines" and "seracs" on the Baltoro glacier proved impassable. Wood ran out early, and the natives in consequence suffered greatly from the cold, as they carry a very scanty supply of clothing. During the latter part of June the members of the expedition were constantly at a height greater than that of Mont Blanc, and Mr. Knowles and a number of natives were attacked by mountain sickness. The party suffered greatly from sand and snow storms and were finally obliged to camp between crevasses, as no other shelter exists.

It was on June 15 that the summits of K 2, Broad Peak, Godwin Austen, and the "Golden Throne," which Conway failed to reach, were sighted. Mr. Crowley led the advance party and Mr. Eckenstein brought up the rear, at two days interval with baggage. On their arrival at the base most of the coolies were dismissed and a consultation held as to who would form the pioneer party to explore the mountain K 2 with a view to finding a possible path to the summit on the northern side, as the precipitous face of the peak on the south precluded a successful attempt being made on this side. Messrs. Crowley, Pfannel, and Guillarmod were finally chosen and were to be followed by the three others later. The ascent of the mountain commenced on June 30. It may be of interest to mention that Sir William Conway holds the Himalayan record, having successfully climbed the Pioneer Peak, 21,000ft., in 1902. Recent news in India stated that the attempt to reach the top of K 2, failed.