THE PIONEER

Allahabad, India

17 July 1905

(page 1)

We learn that an expedition will start from Darjeeling early in September next to explore the glaciers of Kanchinjunga. The members composing the party are Mr. A. Crowley, Doctor Jacob Guillarmod [Jules Jacot Guillarmod], and Messers. Raymond [sic] [Charles-Adolphe Reymond] and Packe [sic] [Alexis Pache], two Swiss amatuer mountaineers. Doctor Guillarmod and Mr. Crowley are well known climbers and have had some Himalayan experience in Baltistan. The expedition will proceed via the Pamayanchi Jongri over the Kang La to Tseram, above sixteen thousand feet. The formal sanction of the Nepal durbar is now awaited. It is believed that the exploration is being made at the instance of a private syndicate, and it is hoped that it will beat the record in the way of height.