THE DAILY MAIL

London, England

18 September 1905

(page 7)

THE GREAT CLIMB.

RECOVERY OF LIEUTENANT PACHE’S BODY.

We have received the following cablegram from Mr. Allister [sic] Crowley, giving further particulars regarding the accident which led to the abandonment for this year of the expedition up Kinchinjunga, during which Lieutenant Pache [Alexis Pache] and three guides were swept away in an avalanche:—

DARJEELING, Saturday, Sept. 16.

Further details of the disaster show that the doctor [Jules Jacot Guillarmod] was descending last, instead of first. The rope was 300 feet long, and the distance of the first man from the last might have been about that length.

Actually it was less than thirty feet, as is proved by the width of the avalanche and the absence of marks of dragging. I am of the opinion that if the doctor had run down the opposite slope after the slip, friction on the rope might have saved the party.

The bodies of Lieutenant Pache and one coolie have been recovered.

Allister Crowley.