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Correspondence from Oscar Eckenstein to D. W. Freshfield
Camp XI on Godwin Austen Glacier, about 19,500 feet.
July 27, 1902.
We established our camp X, height about 18,600 feet, just 49 days ago. Since then we've had eight partially fine days (no 3 consecutive) and the rest of the time continuous snow storms. Never anywhere in the world have I experienced such bad weather. Our present snow storm has gone on for over 96 hrs., and shows as yet no sign of abatement. At our camp here there are over 5 feet of fresh snow. Our prospects of ascending a high mountain, or any mountain, are consequently practically nil on this occasion. We expect quite difficulty enough—unless material improvement in the weather ensues - in forcing our way down. So our experience this time is a very unfortunate one. At all events we have shown that it is possible to be for a considerable period of time at a height of 19,000-20,000 feet without material effect.
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