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Correspondence from Aleister Crowley to Martin Hall [of Fortnum & Mason]
[Undated: circa May 1914]
Dear Mr. Martin Hall,
With reference to the conversation we had yesterday, I now proceed to give you a detailed idea of the Himalayan Expedition of which we spoke. There are two possible objectives, 1) Chogo-Ri or K2 (28,250) and 2) Kangchenjunga (28, 156 ft). These two expeditions are however so different in every respect that I must deal with them separately.
I want three to five companions, though I could do with less, but I would not take more. I have an ideal doctor belonging to the Indian Army and accustomed to the Himalayas, but who says that he cannot put up more than £400 at the outside. As however he is resident in India nearly £400 would be saved on fares. There is another possible candidate evident in Cashmere, but as he is recently married I do not know whether he would continue in his willingness to join. He should be able to pay at least his share in he did join.
Chogo Ri
The minimum sum required to furnish an expedition for 6 men all starting from and returning to England would be £3,500. With £600 however one could do everything in the best possible manner. From London to London the expedition would last not more than 7 months. This estimate is very definite as the passes from Cashmere into Baltistan open and close at definite periods of the year owing to snowfall. The party would have to leave England about March 1. It would be highly advisable to dispatch equipment much earlier.
The exact date of return would depend on the summer. It is about 14 days from London to Bombay: 3 days from Bombay to Rawalpindi; either 2 or 7 days from Rawalpindi to Srinagar, depending on whether the equipment has been sent on before or not. About 30 ordinary marches to the foot of the Glacier, ponies not always available: 10 of 11 marches to the foot of the mountain. Fresh meat and fresh food generally can be obtained up to the fourth march on the Glacier. As far as the Glacier 100 coolies approximately are necessary to carry the loads. On the Glacier itself this number must be multiplied by three as it requires two men to carry sufficient for themselves and a third.
For these expeditions a man should not be less than 25 or more than 45 years old. Previous experience of mountain climbing in the Alps is not necessary, provided that there is intelligence and willingness to conform to the regulations laid down by the leader with regard to the danger of the mountain. General camping experience is, however very valuable. A good deal of fatigue and hardship may be expected.
There is excellent shooting Ibex, Markher, Ovis Minor, Ovis Peli, etc, but members of the expedition would be pledged not to indulge in it until after the success of the Expedition. There is also excellent shooting in Cashmere in the autumn if any member of the party chooses to prolong his tour.
Kangchenjunga
The minimum required for an expedition to the Kang Chenjunga would be £2000, to do it in the best possible style £4000. One must leave England in May. The time of return would depend on the weather, but there is no reason why the Expedition should not be over in time for its members to return to England in October at the latest. There is no shooting on the Expedition, tho' any amount can be obtained in the immediate vicinity on the return—the best shooting in India. There is a slight difficulty about K.C. It has one approach through Nepal and it requires special permission from the Dewan of Nepal which however we had no difficulty in getting on the last occasion.
I want to make up my party before the end of June, so as to take these members for practical climbing and camping in the Alps during July and August. From September to the end of the year would be devoted to getting the equipment. In neither expedition is any kind of disease to be feared. The conditions are ideal for health.
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