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Oscar Eckenstein Diary Entry Saturday, 19 January 1901
From our camp we [Eckenstein and Aleister Crowley] bore in an E.N.E. direction to the foot of the rock wall bounding the S.W. ridge (of Panza), on the west side. We then ascended this rock wall, which at this point is about 67 metres (220 feet) high. We then went up over hard snow, in a fairly straight line, to a point somewhat below the depression between the snow and ice summits; a short traverse over rather steep rotten ice, followed by a short ascent over snow at a gentle gradient, then took us to the top of the ice summit, which we assumed to be the highest summit. It was somewhat misty. On the way down we varied our route; after the ice traverse we struck down the main slope to the south, and were enables to glissade a great part of the way. Times: Camp to floor of wall, 2 h.; ascent of wall, 35 m.; then to ice traverse, 2 h.; then to summit, 20 m. Descent, top to camp, 1 h. 15m.
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