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Dr. Jules Jacot-Guillarmod Diary Entry Thursday, 19 June 1902
On the morning of June 19, K2 is there, covering the whole clear sky. The small caravan is merging between the seracs. I distributed sunglasses to the bearers suffering from conjunctivitis and am pleased with the effectiveness of the shoes made of straw and rags, which give the Baltis a very good grip on the ice. The next day rapid ascent between beautiful and deep blue seracs. I am disturbed to see the porters (badly roped up) marching and break the snow bridges to show them the crevasses. The main camp, or base camp, is reached early in the morning. Half a dozen porters stay up there, sleeping crammed together like sardines in a small tent. The rest descend again. Soorfras, (Jules Jacot Guillarmod's servant), is very fond of me and wishes to be taken into my service in Europe. I give him my old shoes and describe his manners: He kisses me everywhere, on my feet, my hands. He would have liked to stay with us to join the climb, but Eckenstein [Oscar Eckenstein] doesn't want him, so with a heavy heart he descends with the rest of the troupe.
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