THE BOMBAY GAZETTE

Bombay (Mumbai), India

22 September 1905

(page 5)

THE KINCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION.

RETURN OF THE EXPLORERS.

(FROM OUR CORRESPONDENT.)

DARJEELING, SEPT. 21.

Messrs. Guillarmond [Jules Jacot Guillarmod], Raymond [Charles-Adolphe Reymond] and Righi [Alcesti de Righi] arrived from Kinchenjunga late last night all well. They discovered the dead bodies on 3rd instant. The natives were buried by their comrades in the snow. But Mr. Pache's [Alexis Pache] body was brought down below the snow line and buried with a cairn to mark the spot. Mr. Righi broke a rib in his fall with the avalanche. They say that when they shouted for help Raymond only slid down, but Crowley did not come. He came to their camp next day. Two Kashmeri mountaineers say that Crowley warned the others about the danger and that it was a great mistake that the party roped themselves so closely. Righi says that the body of Pache was buried in ten feet of snow and was found in a standing position.

The three Europeans walked back all the way, coming via Jongri which Crowley had avoided on the return journey. They have their feet frost bitten and say that snow here is colder than in Kashmir owing to colder winds. The party had supplies for three months, but brought on discontent by needless hardships caused by pushing on too rapidly. The quarrel between the Europeans may end in litigation.

FULLER DETAILS OF THE ACCIDENT.

On Saturday afternoon, writes the “Darjeeling Visitor,” news was received in Darjeeling of the fatal accident that befell the Kinchenjunga Expedition.

On Friday, the 1st instant, while at an elevation of about 20,000 feet, an ascent was made to find out something of the nature of the height that lay some miles in front of their camp. It was a steep climb and the snow lay thick. The afternoon was bright and the party had great hopes of getting some good views. While returning to camp about 5-30 in the afternoon, Messrs. Guillarmond, Pache, Righi and three natives were descending the snow having roped themselves to each other, but when near the end of the descent the whole party of six were swept down some 250 feet by an avalanche, which buried the whole party under the rushing snow. Dr. Guillarmond and Mr. Righi most miraculously managed to extricate themselves, but the rest of the four, Mr. Pache and the three natives, could not be found. An hour's search was made, but as darkness fell over the snows the two survivors had to make their way to the camp some two miles away. The search was renewed the next morning, but the fresh snow that had accumulated during the night made it impossible to discover the bodies.

The survivors were badly bruised, but the rumour in the station yesterday that Mr. Righi had broken some ribs and had died, is not correct. This catastrophe has frightened the coolies to such an extent that they refuse to go further, and the two Europeans are obliged to return from the very foot of Kinchenjunga. Mr. Crowley was already on his way back, Mr. Righi and two Swiss gentlemen alone pursuing their adventurous course. Mr. Crowley will be back in a week and will be joined by Mrs. Crowley at the end of the month.

We are glad that Messrs. Righi and Guillarmond are returning before further mishap befalls them and their coolies. The death of a European and three natives is most deplorable and Government ought really to put a stop to people risking their lives in this way. During summer the snow is quite soft and the rains cause frequent avalanches which are all the more dangerous during a short break of fine weather when the sun can beat on the snow. Some years ago Mr. Freshfield found climbing most difficult although he went much later in the season. Mr. Crowley would not even take a mountain guide with him a man who would understand how to direct climbing parties and point out dangerous places.