THE SPHERE

London, England

18 November 1905

(Page 157)

THE HIMALAYAS—The Fatal Accident

on Kangchenjunga (28,150 ft.)

THE DESCENT WHERE LIEUTENANT PACHE WAS KILLED

Pictures have just come to hand dealing with the death of Lieutenant Alexis Pache, a Swiss on Kangchenjunga on September 1. The mountain, one of the Himalayas, rises in the north-east corner of Nepal to a height of 28,150 ft. against the 29,002 ft. of Everest, the highest peak in that magnificent range. Kangchenjunga—which Mr. Douglas Freshfield explored three or four years ago—was ascended this autumn by a party composed of Lieutenant Pache, Dr. J. Jacob-Guillarmod [Jules Jacot Guillarmod], and A. C. Rigo de Riglis [Alcesti de Righi], with three natives. They started at five o’clock in the afternoon of September 1 from Camp “5” (20,500 ft. high) to descend to Camp “3.” The corded party was composed as follows: (1) the doctor, (2) de Riglis, (3) and (4) two natives, (5) Lieutenant Pache, (6) native. Only two of the party carried ice axes and only four had steel claws on their boots. About twenty minutes after starting the party reached a slippery part of the path above a steep slope. The doctor decided to wait here safely anchored. The two coolies, who were shod only with Tibetan boots, slipped and fell, involving the last two; the weight of the four falling tore de Riglis and the doctor from their anchorage and also started the avalanche. They fell about 500 ft.; the doctor and de Riglis falling last escaped the bulk of the snow and survived, coming out with only a few injuries. Having no spades they could not free their unfortunate companions, whose remains were extricated three days afterwards from 10 ft. of snow. The expedition was then abandoned.

A CAIRN MARKING THE SPOT WHERE LIEUTENANT PACHE WAS KILLED